lazycompost.com
Gardening organically since 1968
Compost Frequently Asked Questions
Organic Gardening Simplified
©
Pam Walatka
Do I have to buy a compost bin?
Absolutely not.
Nature has been making compost without bins since the origin of soil.
You do not have to buy anything.
Introduction
- What is compost
- What goes into compost?
- Does it matter how I make compost?
- What is the recipe for balancing brown and green materials?
- What about layers?
- How do I collect kitchen waste?
- Is the compost going to smell?
- Do I have to turn the compost?
- Are there two kinds of compost?
- What is compost good for?
- Can I use compost for potted plants?
- Should I put compost on my lawn?
- Should I compost if beginning a garden for the first time?
- How long does it take to get compost?
Compost Bins
- Do I have to buy a compost bin?
- Can I just pile the compost on the ground?
- I want to make a compost bin. Can you recommend a design?
- Can I make the compost in a closed container?
- I really want to buy a bin. What do you recommend?
Ingredients (good and evil)
- Can I put dog doo into the compost? [No!]
- Are grass clippings good in compost?
- Are leaves good in compost?
- Are leaves too acidic? What about soil pH?
- What about shredded paper?
- Should I add manure?
- Should I add worms?
- What about coffee grounds?
Further Info
- How much compost will I get?
- When should I start a new compost pile?
- Why would I want to make compost?
INTRODUCTION
- What is compost?
- Compost is extra-rich fluffy dirt
made of decomposed organic materials such as kitchen scraps and weeds.
See our page:
Compost Simplified.
- What goes into compost?
- Compost is made out of materials that used to be alive,
such as kitchen scraps and weeds.
Dirt and air also go into compost.
Kitchen scraps include peels,
vegetable trimmings, crushed egg shells, tea bags, coffee grounds,
and no-meat-no-sweet-no-grease leftovers.
Usually the pile
is made in layers of the different ingredients, because the different
materials help each other decompose: a layer of
yard trimmings, a layer of kitchen scraps, a layer of dirt, a layer of lawn trimmings, another layer of dirt, etc.
Intersperse layers of
(a) dry vegetation
(b) soil
(c) green vegetation/kitchen waste.
Let the rain fall
in, and in dry weather add enough water to keep the pile moist.
You do not have to be exact about these layers; just pile on
what you have, and work towards keeping a balance.
Again, see our page:
Compost Simplified for details.
- Does it matter how I make compost?
- As my expert-gardener
mom used to say, "I don't know why people worry about
how to make compost. Compost is going to happen. If you take
organic materials (things that used to be alive) and mix them
with dirt in
a pile, and wait, they will turn into good rich soil. This is a
basic law of Nature. You cannot stop compost from happening."
- What is the recipe for balancing brown and green materials?
- For the fastest breakdown and least smell, keep a balance of one part
green materials to three parts brown materials. When you have about an inch-thick layer of kitchen scraps on your pile,
add two or three inches of dirt/straw/dry weeds. Or just throw a shovel-full of brown materials on the pile whenever you empty your
compost bowl.
- Green materials = fresh grass clippings, kitchen scraps, green weeds and garden trimmings.
- Brown materials = fallen leaves, dry weeds, shredded newspaper, nut shells, untreated wood chips or shavings, straw, and soil.
See the next question for more on layers.
- What about layers?
-
The amount of time I spend worrying about layers is 0:00 seconds per year.
Although most compost instructions tell you to make layers of alternating brown and green materials,
never mind about that! Every day, empty your sink-side
bowl of kitchen scraps onto the compost pile. When you do weeding, toss the weeds onto your pile.
When you rake leaves, dump them on the pile (or make a separate pile for
leaf mold).
Once in a while, shovel some dirt onto the pile. Keeping a balance of different klinds of material is a good idea,
but only abstractly. In real life, you put in what you have when you have it.
In spring, you may put in many armloads of weeds. In fall, many armloads of leaves.
As long as you are mixing SOMETHING in with your kitchen scraps, do not worry about layers.
- How do I collect kitchen waste?
- I keep an ordinary 2.5 quart mixing bowl near my kitchen garbage.
I just put kitchen scraps into the compost bowl
instead of into the garbage or garbage disposal. (In an ideal house,
the garbage disposal would empty into the compost pile.) About
once a day, I take the bowl out to the yard, empty it onto the
compost pile, and then maybe throw some dirt on top of it. Near the compost
pile, I have a pile of loose dirt. The only important feature of the compost-collecting
container is that it be open to the air. A closed container will
stink. Too many compost-collecting containers have lids. Just use an ordinary bowl.
- Is the compost going to smell?
- A good compost pile does not smell much. You can have it near your
house and as close as ten feet from your patio area. In order not
to smell bad, compost needs three things: dirt, brown yard waste
(such as fallen leaves or dry weeds), and air. See
recipe above. Microorganisms
in dirt eat kitchen garbage scraps and break them down into compost.
Without the microorganisms in dirt, compost just rots in a stinky way.
With the dirt, the compost decomposes into beautiful earthy-smelling,
fluffy dirt. Another essential ingredient of compost is brown yard
waste, such as dried leaves or dried weeds. The third anti-stink
ingredient is air. The kitchen garbage scraps need to be oxidized. If you want to make your compost really stink, try
enclosing it in an air-tight plastic container. Ugh!
- Do I have to turn the compost?
- No. I almost never turn mine, except to fork the spread-out edges
back onto the top. If you do turn yours, use a garden fork;
it goes into the pile more easily than a shovel. A pitch fork is too fragile,
you need a solid garden fork. A turned pile does decompose faster,
but what is the rush?
- Are there two kinds of compost?
- Yes, hot compost and relaxed compost. Hot compost can get quite hot
to the touch,
and decomposes quickly. Relaxed compost gets
warm but not too hot for worms to live in it. Hot compost is
more difficult to make: you need a bin or pile at least one cubic yard
(that is, at least three feet long on each side) and you need to
be careful to add three parts of dry-brown ingredients, such
as dried weeds or leaves, for each part of green ingredients.
See
recipe above.
Also, fresh manure usually makes a compost pile hot. Choose
hot compost if you do not mind adding manure, and if you are
in a hurry. Relaxed compost is easier.
You can leave out the manure, and just add stuff as you have it.
- What is compost good for?
- Compost is good for improving any garden soil or potting medium. Compost is nature-made
dirt. It has a fluffy consistency which is is good for root growth.
It is full of nutrients that plants need to grow. Composting will
help your garden.
- Can I use compost for potted plants?
- Yes. I trowel compost from my done pile straight into my pots.
I fill the pot with compost. Pure compost is my potting mix.
- Should I put compost on my lawn?
- Gardeners usually do not put compost on top of
established lawns because that would be like piling dirt on your
lawn, but compost dug into the ground before you plant a lawn is
a good idea.
- Should I compost if beginning a garden for the first time?
- Yes, do make a compost pile if beginning a garden
for the first time; you will have better results.
See next question.
- How long does it take to get compost?
- A compost pile usually takes at least three months to break down.
A relaxed pile may take six
months. You may need to buy
compost if you are ready to start gardening and your compost is not
ready.
COMPOST BINS
- Do I have to buy a compost bin?
- Absolutely not. Nature has been making compost without bins
since the origin of soil. You do not have to buy anything except a shovel
to be an organic gardener.
- Can I just pile the compost on the ground?
- Oh yes, that is what I do. After all, it is a compost pile.
I just have compost areas in my garden; I pile my compost there.
I have three piles:
- New Pile -- where I put compost ingredients
- Resting Pile -- which I leave alone for a few months
- Ready Pile -- where I get compost for my garden
Anything I am putting into the compost, I add to the New Pile.
I let the Resting Pile sit for a few months.
When the Resting Pile is ready to use--it mostly looks
like dirt--it becomes the Ready Pile;
The New Pile becomes the Resting Pile, left alone while it decomposes, and I start a New Pile.
All of my piles are a quick easy walk from the kitchen.
In reality, I only have two areas; I start the New Pile right next to the Ready Pile.
After more than four decades of doing this, I have the timing down so that I
usually have a pile of compost ready.
If you need to isolate your compost from your dog or other creatures, you might
want to enclose it with a wire mesh fence such as
this one.
The Sassos, a famous gardening couple in Saratoga, California,
have a hallway-sized area where they pile refuse from their
numerous herb gardens. They start a pile at one end of the area. When
the pile is three feet deep, they start a new pile right next to the first,
and so forth, working their way down to the end of the area. As the
first end becomes ready, they take the finished compost away to
put on the garden.
- I want to make a compost bin. Can you recommend a design?
- As I said above, I just
pile mine on the ground,
but I have seen some very nice bins. Good bins feature the same idea:
the over-all bin is separated into three side-by-side bins.
You fill the first bin with compostable stuff, then let it sit and
decompose while you fill up the second bin. By the time the second
bin is full, the first is probably ready to use, and you start filling
up the third while the second decomposes. Once you get going, you
have three bins: one with nice fluffy done compost to use now, one
in the process of decomposing, and one in the process of being filled up.
Each bin is a cube at least three feet on each side. The bins are
constructed out of lumber or discarded wooden palettes. Palettes
can be connected to each other with nails or with wire wound around
the joints.
Some people cover the top of their bins, some don't. The back and sides and dividing walls
are made out of wood with spaces in between for air, or wood frames
with wire mesh. The fronts are made out of removable slats, for
when you want to shovel the compost out, or just left open.
See the video at lazycompost.com/index.shtml
Here is an attempt to show what a three-bin composter looks like
from the top:
Top view
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Another option that works well is to but two or three of
these. They cost around $40 each.
- Can I make the compost in a closed container?
- No, no, no no, no. That's what makes compost stink--the lack of air.
See Is the compost going to
smell?. Many readers have written to me
with this question; there seems to be an idea going around that
enclosing compost in a plastic bin will contain the odor. But
a good compost pile with air and dirt hardly smells at all,
while an enclosed plastic container, when you open it to put in garbage, smells like dead monsters.
- I really want to buy a bin. What do you recommend?
- If you must buy a bin, buy one that is open to the air, made of wire mesh or something like that. But I still say you can just
pile your compost on the ground. I guess a bin does have the advantage
of being a little neater. Maybe whether or not to buy a bin depends on
whether or not your compost area is visible from the rest of your yard,
and whether or not you think a compost pile is attractive.
See the video at lazycompost.com/index.shtml for a way to make an easy compost bin from a puppy fence.
INGREDIENTS
- Can I put dog doo into the compost?
- No. Dog doo (or doo from any meat eating animal such as rat or pig)
contains pathogens that never decompose. Do NOT put dog doo in your
compost. You can bury it under non-fruit-bearing trees, such as pine
trees. Dog doo will decompose into dirt, and that dirt
will be fertilizer; you just do not want to get it into your fruits or
vegetables, and you do not want to be handling it, because microorganisms
such as hookworms can get into your body through your skin. Do not put it
in the flower bed either--you will be digging there. In other words, do put
dog doo into the ground where it can decompose, but do not put it into your
nice compost pile or in the garden. Put dog doo where you will not be digging
in it and where you are not growing food.
- Are grass clippings good in compost?
- Yes, but not in one big mass. Grass clippings make excellent
compost, but they
tend to clump together and exclude air. Sprinkle them in shallow
layers on your compost. If you have a small compost pile, make
the grass-clipping layers two inches or less thick. In a big compost
pile, grass layers can be three
inches thick. Intersperse the grass layers with layers of dirt
or kitchen waste. I just let my grass clippings fall behind the mower,
to decompose and turn into nitrogen rich fertilizer. If I am expecting
company, I rake up the clippings into a pile near the lawn.
Eventually, they decompose.
CAUTION: lawns are often treated with
Weed and Feed or other broad-leaf weed killers. These
poisons persist; they could kill your vegetable plants
if the poison is in your compost. Therefore, use only
your own unpoisoned lawn clippings (if you have a gardening
service, find out what they use).
- Are leaves good in compost?
- Yes, leaves make great compost, but they do decompose
slowly. A few thin layers of leaves help
let air into your pile, and dried-brown leaves
help keep your compost smelling OK. If you have a large
number of leaves, you might want to make a separate pile
just for leaves, and maybe lawn clippings.
Let the pile decompose into leaf mold, nature's way of making new soil under trees.
It may take
years (the process is a somewhat different from the compost process, and slower). Patience.
The result is a great soil amendment.
I have a pile of decomposing leaves, but mostly I rake my leaves from where they fall to under fruit trees, for a thick mulch.
Some gardeners disagree with me and say you have to let them decompose first,
then use them as mulch. I sweep the leaves on my deck onto the adjacent compost pile.
See 3-things-to-do-with-your-leaves
See also the next question.
- Are leaves too acidic? What about soil pH?
- I think leaves are fine. But every organic gardener should test their soil pH and compost
pH--you really do need to know whether your soil is too acid, too alkaline or about right.
See pH Chart for details.
Get a soil test kit from a nursery
or from a seed/garden company, or get pH testing litmus paper
strips from a pharmacy.
If your soil tends to be acidic, periodically sprinkle an alkaline ingredient such as wood ashes,
lime, or oyster shells on your compost pile.
If your soil is too alkaline, you can add pine needles or coffee grounds.
Do not do anything to change the pH before
you test; in matters of pH, better to do nothing than to do the wrong thing.
- What about shredded paper?
- Shredded paper is good in compost, but not un-shredded paper.
A stack of flat paper fails to decompose.
Put a wire-grid cylinder around your pile if
the paper blows away. Most ink these days is
soy based, non-toxic.
- Should I add manure?
- Manure is a basic, old-fashioned, excellent
ingredient for compost. Fresh manure speeds
the decomposition and adds nitrogen. Use cow, horse, chicken,
or bunny manure, or any manure from an
animal that does not eat meat or dog/cat food.
Do not use dog doo.
You can go to the
nearest farm and get manure usually
for free (put it in buckets, paper bags, or the bed of a pickup truck).
The problem with fresh manure is that most likely
it will be infested with flies. I prefer to compost without manure
and then get bags of sterilized composted manure from a store.
When I am digging compost into my garden, I dig in manure too.
If you hate the idea of being near
manure, never mind, you do not need to use it.
A compost pile will work fine, especially if
you use worms. See next question.
- Should I add worms?
- Worms are great. They will crawl into your pile anyway,
but you can speed things up by adding more.
Get them from a bait store (night crawlers or red worms).
Charles Darwin discovered that worms help
make soil, by digesting garbage and outputting,
so to speak, enriched soil. If you have a lot of
fresh manure in your pile, the pile will be too
hot for earthworms; worms are usually considered
the alternative to manure.
- What about coffee grounds?
- Coffee grounds are great in compost. Many coffee
shops will give you great big bag fulls for free. Stir them
in, though, or they might clump together. Coffee grounds are acidic; see
pH.
FURTHER INFO
- How much compost will I get?
- Oh, disappointing news: you only get about a third or
a quarter of the amount of stuff you put on the pile.
Compost BREAKS DOWN material--it gets smaller. Just
add as much material as you can while you are making the compost.
- When should I start a new pile?
- When your pile is near 3 feet high, or when much of it
has turned into compost. I rake the undecomposed stuff
off of the top and onto a new pile, then turn over (with a shovel
or garden fork) the
almost-ready
compost underneath.
- Why would I want to make compost?
-
- To help Mother Nature replenish the earth. Earth is another word
for dirt. Our planet is the only known planet lucky enough to have dirt.
Dirt is made out of things that used to be alive, mixed with bits
of minerals. Nature breaks down formerly-living materials to make
earth. You can help. You can be a part of the natural cycle of life on earth.
- To improve your garden; compost makes the best possible
garden soil; it is rich in humus (for better soil texture and water retention)
rich in nutrients (for better growth) and fluffy (for better root growth).
- To save money by not having to buy compost.
- Organic gardening goes way beyond the growing of healthy food.
By using compost, you improve the quality of your soil for anything you grow.
See also:
Compost Simplified
To ask questions or make comments, join
Facebook Lazy Compost Club
Credits: thank you to these gentle readers who were the first to email questions
to me: Pat Williams, Cynthia Stagner, Kay Talley, Mk Woltzen, Cathi Llewellyn,
Willowfish, smuchez, Cailin Goldberg-Meehan, John Schmidt, and Jason Kramer.
See also my other pages
Web work and hand-crafted HTML by Sandy Johan and Pam Walatka
2024 Creative Commons Copyright--Ok to share for non-commercial use
email: pam@pamwalatka.com